For instance, the baseball federation's not far from the airport -- frustrating, given that I've successfully arranged a full day's tour of the greater Sao Paolo hardball scene from the VP of the Brazilian "Confederation," but had no return contact from the porteños here -- and there's a rock concert going on this weekend outside of town. Also, that cab fare is arranged on an estimated $1 ($3 pesos) per km outside the city limits, but by meter in B.A. districto federal (much like Mexico D.F. or Washington, DC).
The Brazilian visa crisis is nearly averted; I wait here in one of B.A.'s thousands of internet - coffee - alcohol - lite meal cafes, having successfully given over my passport to the Brazilian consulate (I knew I should have brought the old one as backup!) and, once the bank down the street opens, I'll be free to pay the rather hefty tourist tariff, and hit the streets with my oh-so-American-abroad backpack (I ditched the "vacation" straw hat, but was clever enough to bring non-short, non-jean pants -- they pack a European's erudition, here) to finally grab the hotel.
Yes, I decided to pass on the hostel scene -- although my fantastic $19, four-star hotel got yoinked with an email saying "sorry, it should have been $109;" can you just reneg like that? And, how do you spell 'reneg?' Even Word only has 'reneged,' I suppose because if you knew someone was going to do it, present or future, you wouldn't have agreed...
Anyway, the hotel I wound up with is perfect (unseen, anyway): just off the Rio Plata, more of a bay/harbor that extends inland from the Atlantic, separating Argentina from Uruguay. It's a bit north of the tango-themed San Telmo, and from La Boca, an up-n-coming urban arts hub whose descriptions remind me of East Atlanta; and a little south of the famously cosmopolitan streets of Palermo, not to mention the legendary Consulado Braziliano.
At present I sit a few feet off the widest city street in the world, la Avenida 9 de Julio, pictured above. My precious Lonely guide tells me I'm right in line with the locals, sitting forever over an espresso and desayuno crudo, a generous and deliciously prepared bruscetta de jamon crudo (not nearly so dry as its Spanish counterpart.) However, the bank is open by now, and I've got some settlin' in to do.
It's a fine start, and I haven't even seen what I came to see -- which is lots of chic neighborhoods, otherwise I-don't-know-what.
I've got five days to learn Portugese.
P.S. -- For those curious about my itinerary, it's Buenos and environs through Sunday the first; Sao Paolo for two days and nights, mostly for the baseball thing; and Rio Wednesday through Friday. I'm back about midday Saturday.
Any travel tips more than welcome! Not only am I traveling solo, I have zero contacts here, save the business-y piece in Sao Paolo.
J.
1 comment:
Jesse- you are going to love Buenos Aires. My favorite neighborhood is Palermo, just walking up and down those streets. The MALBA is a great modern art museum that is a must-see. You can walk from Palermo to the museum and pass through that huge huge park on the way, right by the zoo. San Telmo is a good afternoon trip. You have to try the street vendor's chori-pan! Yum! There are a few in San Telmo off a side street, or even over by the Ecological Reserve, there are some stands over there. Anyways- have a great time! Me encanta Buenos Aires!
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